Back Home Again

Ok, so again I did not expect it to be a few more weeks until my next update...guess I'm not so good at blogging. As you can see I do have some pictures to share this time, and would love to share all of them with you sometime, so please call to set up your own personal viewing!

Does not feel like the trip should be over yet, and it's wierd to think about where you have been and how different it is from here. As I look back, there are a couple of things that stick out to me among the flury of memories. The people of Africa were so very welcoming to us during the whole trip. I felt a genuine sense like people were glad we were there. Not just the folks 'assigned' to us, but all the other Africans we met along the way. Sometimes we recieved some strange looks based mostly on the fact that we DO look strange compared to everybody else (especially in the areas without many regular visitors). I felt as if the locals were very proud of their countries and thrilled to have a chance to show it to us. Just being white elevates you to almost celebrity status in some of the small villages (so if you want to feel like a celebrity, you now know where to go!). Our team was able to experience spectacular views of fallls on the Blue and White Nile and visited the source of both Nile rivers (they converge in Sudan). We experienced some spectacular views at 11,000 plus feet while traveling in northern Ethiopia, and toured coutless 12 and 13th century churches carved into solid rock in Lalibela.

Folks in Africa don't look at stuggles and obstacles the same way we do. When the power goes out, you just grab the back up lights that have been charging for just such an occasion. When water is not available, you conserve, and share a bucket. When your not exactly on time, according to some pre-arranged schedule, you just go with the flow and don't worry about it. When traffic doesn't move, you accept it and relish in the time you have for extra conversation. When the taxi's go on strike, you walk (as far as you have to). You are alive and there will be another day and that is reason enough to be optimistic.

Africa really makes you wonder how much less we could get by on...and not just get by, but be happy. Does make you think twice next time your upset for your local Starbucks not having 1% milk avaiable.

Africa Time

Well, I was not expecting for it to take me 2 weeks to make my first update. I have found that hot water and power are not givens, let alone internet access. Guess I am also learning how to live on Africa time. Schedules are basically a framework to start with and the actual timing of events evolves as you go. My team and I have adopted the flexible mindset and just 'go with the flow'. I don't want to give you the idea that that means we have been sitting around....Our first two weeks have been a flury of tours, trips, presentations, lunches, dinners, meetings, etc...We have been able to experience Africa the way everyone should. Staying with locals has given us insight into what it means to me a middle class Ugandan. Folks here work very hard, with very little, for very little, and yet enjoy a high quality of life. That may sound strange, and maybe it is a little hard to explain.

We just left Jinga, the source of the Nile, and have now arrived in Addis. Was good to experience a more rural part of Uganda. My host 'dad' (John) helped start the Lords Mead school which we toured upon arrival. We visited the different dorms, classrooms, and tasted the local fare. They prepare two meals a day for the 700+ kids that are there. We were also able to listen to some very moving testimony from former child soldiers from the LRA (Lords Resistance Army). The LRA has been battling with the Ugandan govn't for 20+ years and it has taken it's toll on the north. Upon arriving to my host home, found that besides starting a school, John also has taken in a number of boys - kind of like an unofficial orphanage. One of these boys was also a former LRA soldier, who has lost a leg. Although his English was lacking, we communicated with smiles, and he and the others all seem to have great attitudes. This is impressive considering what many of them have gone through. I was also able to get my dog 'fix', since since John also seems to adopt animals. He had 6 dogs, and the garage has been converted into a Chicken Coop. It doesn't pay to be a light sleeper here in Africa.

Perhaps the funniest moment thus far was during our last evening in Jinga. The Rotary Club had prepared a very nice send off for us on the grounds of a new hotel. After we loaded up our plates with Matoke, Iris, Posho, and some other local favorites, we settled in for some speeches. Introductions here sometimes are synonymous with a speech. One seemingly shy Pakistani gentleman stoop up to the mic. After clearing his throat a few times and looking around, he broke into an old fashioned American style 'beat-box' that would have turned heads from some of the best rappers. Probably the longest I've laughed in a while. The Ugandans, and others that live here DO have a good sense of humor and good sense about life. Even when verbal communication lacks, you always know you can send a message with a smile.


Hope to have some pictures up soon and sorry I have missed the seismic excitement.

Greg

Change of Plans

Traveling to Africa is apparently all about timing. From January to March the political climate in Kenya has gone from bad to worse to ok again...Unfortunately the uncertainty has created enough significant questions about safe travel, that Rotary International has chosen to send our group study exchange team to Uganda instead. So we will now be traveling to Uganda for two weeks and Ethiopia for two weeks. Itinerary details have not yet been released, and all we know is we will be staying with host families in both of these countries.

I look forward to getting know some African citizens and appreciate the opportunity to 'hear' about life in Africa firsthand. It is one thing to try and interpret the multitude of media spun information directed our way, and another to talk directly with people that live there. I am reminded of my visit to Belfast, Ireland in 2000. The anxiety my brother and I felt as we anticipated rolling into a city with 'regular bombings' quickly diminished as we admired the architecture and local culture. We even found some Indianapolis flavor in Belfast (see picture)! The fellow travelers we had met from Belfast (while in Australia) repeatedly encouraged our visit to their home city and assured us the media hype was just that.

Sometimes it seems like the only worthy new stories involve terrorist activity, and US air strikes. The news today from Somalia (neighbor of Ethiopia) was about US air strikes at suspected al-Qaida targets. Is this one of the many seemingly regular activities our DOD participates in, or the start of something more?

For now, my team will continue our planning and prepartions. Most of us have now received the bulk of the many vaccinations that are recommended for our visist including yellow fever, and typhoid. We have read many books, watched movies, and attemped to educate ourselves about our host countries and what we should expect. I expect, that like my past travel experiences, we will be shown a land and culture that surprises us and does not fit within the parameters we have already established. Tentatively, we leave on April 6, and I hope to make farily regular posts during our one month stay- please check back!
Greg

Violence in Kenya

As the trip get's closer for us, we are reminded that Africa is still Africa. What has been traditionally considered a more 'stable' part of Africa, Kenya has been rocked by violent tribal attacks as a result of the recent presidential election. Claims that the election was rigged by President Mwai Kibaki spurred attacts against members of the Kikuyu tribe, the President's tribe. Different media sources estimate the death toll so far to be between 400-1000.

Indiana has many important ties to Kenya because of the IU/Kenya partnership and Moi Univerrsity in Eldoret. All IU staff and residents have left Kenya except for Dr. Joe Mamlin and his wife Sara Ellen. They have choosen to stay despite the obvious concerns for their own personal safety. The Mamlin's passion for the people of this country is so strong, they have choosen to remain is this time of great need. Perhaps the words of Dr. Mamlin, as taken from an email he has sent back to the states, can best describe his reason for staying :

"We have seen some things over the last few days that cannot be described in this note. We have witnessed sad evidence that we as a human family have a lot of growing yet to do. When you think a moment, you realize the IU-Kenya Program at its core symbolizes what is so critically needed by Kenyan leadership. This is not a program dedicated to building medical schools or even stamping out a pandemic. At its heart, it is a program that screams "Yes" in a world too ready to say "No". This program puts love and compassion front and center. Those values build the rest. When that message is embraced here, we can go home. We are unable to stop what is now happening, but we are rock solid in keeping to our core message."